96k 24-bit
REC. SETTINGS
OFF
REC. LOWCUT
OFF
REC. LIMITER
19
AUX. SETTINGS
N/A
AUX. BASS
N/A
AUX. HIGH-LOW
N/A
MIC. SETTINGS
ON
MIC. LOWCUT
N/A
MIC. HIGH PASS
+20
(RFI) RADIO FREQUENCY INTERFERENCE
-
LESS THAN
1.1ft / 0.34m
-
BETWEEN
1.1ft / 0.34m -2.2ft / 0.67m
-
BETWEEN
2.2ft / 0.67m -3.3ft / 1m
BETWEEN
3.3ft / 1m -4.4ft / 1.34m
Published:
May 4, 2022 at 9:18:11 PM
REAL RATINGS
After testing each microphone, I like to know if it sounds realistic (accurate lows/bass, mids, highs/treble) in combination with the recorder and/or AUX. amplifier, to see if it needs EQ.
LOWS/BASS
B
DO THE "LOWS" SOUND REAL?
MIDS
B
DO THE "MIDS" SOUND REAL?
HIGHS/TREBLE
B
DO THE "HIGHS" SOUND REAL?
NOTES:
RFI WARNING:
The Zoom H1 (v1) has noticeable RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) when used at less than 5 FEET from an iPhone 13 Pro max. This is a major limitation, especially for LAV use, because if the recorder is in the pocket of a groom, and they have an iPhone somewhere in their coat, this is going to cause RFI.
PREFACE:
I came up with 2 versions of my settings, but the 2nd set is not easy, so I would say start out with the 1st. (The 1st set is what you see above, and the 2nd set will only be in these notes below).
OVERVIEW:
For the 1st settings recommendation, I chose the easy approach (that still sounds pretty good) of switching the MIC. LOWCUT to ON and the MIC. BOOST to +20. This is easiest, because these are 3-position switches, and because they're so little, it can be difficult to set them to a "center" position (instead of to the left or right). The good news is that it works pretty well (though it still needs a custom EQ)!
ALTERNATE VERSION:
I created a 2nd set of settings because this mic has way too much BASS/LOWS (because of the excessively think foam windscreen). This 2nd set of settings includes doing everything I could figure out how to reduce the level of BASS, while recording. This combination will still need a custom EQ to make it sound realistic though, as this mic simply has too much BASS. I also did this to try and make this work (at this "CLOSE" proximity) with both the FOAM + FURRY windscreens on, so I wouldn't have to remove the FURRY when switching recording distances (or going INDOORS vs. OUTDOORS). This ended up being quite a workaround and so it's not my first choice for this mic (at this proximity) but here is settings:
ALTERNATE SETTINGS:
1. ADD the FURRY windscreen (Official Rode)
2. ADD the AUX. Amplifier (Neoteck NTK-059)
3. Set the MIC. BOOST to -10
4. Set the AUX. Amplifier GAIN to "HIGH"
5. Set the AUX. Amplifier VOLUME to "10" (FULL dial)
Keep in mind, these settings will not establish the exact level you'll need for every scene (where the audio level "bounces" around -12) but my goal is to provide a good starting point (that comes out clean, after boosting in post). It's also important to use these "recommended settings" for my microphone-specific EQ files to work properly (they won't work as intended if any of the "audio variables" are different). The EQ file was created to correct any sonic imperfections of the microphone or wind protection (foam, furry) and have been created with Audacity (the free audio editor) to make them as affordable as possible. Also, it's important to always monitor (accurate headphones) your audio while recording so you can hear any problems and make any changes needed to your audio.
GAFFER TAPE SUPPLIED BY
