Natural
"PHOTO STYLE"
-2
CONTRAST
+1
SHARPNESS
+5
-1
-3+3
HIGHLIGHT SHADOW
OFF
iDYNAMIC
OFF
16-255
LUMINANCE LEVEL
![DEFAULT](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/67f64d_60b2a8e6a4994ff98a700863432a533f~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_551,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/67f64d_60b2a8e6a4994ff98a700863432a533f~mv2.jpg)
Canon FDn 50 1.8 PIXCO Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -0-0-0-0 HS -0-0 P1160538
![CUSTOM](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/67f64d_70af4507ac35425aaee7049f6b77e843~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_980,h_551,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_auto/67f64d_70af4507ac35425aaee7049f6b77e843~mv2.jpg)
Canon FDn 50 1.8 PIXCO Panasonic GX85 NATURAL -2+1+5-1 HS -3+3 P1160537
REAL RATINGS
After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic (or not) as this will affect how easy it is to "shot match" (to other lenses).
![Greyscale Landscape](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/11062b_cd40ef6a654641558c2fffb28af5a409~mv2_d_4896_1908_s_2.png/v1/fill/w_238,h_93,al_c,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/11062b_cd40ef6a654641558c2fffb28af5a409~mv2_d_4896_1908_s_2.png)
CONTRAST
B
IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"?
![Black and White Building](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/e3fa26074cdc409d95c8dfc42be0a685.jpg/v1/fill/w_241,h_157,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/e3fa26074cdc409d95c8dfc42be0a685.jpg)
SHARPNESS
C
IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"?
![Lucid](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/37b93386a7fd7f6bb8c29be6d76fc98d.jpg/v1/fill/w_234,h_146,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/37b93386a7fd7f6bb8c29be6d76fc98d.jpg)
NOISE
C
IS THE NOISE "REAL"?
![Too-Much-Bokeh.jpg](https://static.wixstatic.com/media/67f64d_f76025308a05460c887ab222367f6f7d~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_234,h_176,al_c,q_80,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01,enc_avif,quality_auto/67f64d_f76025308a05460c887ab222367f6f7d~mv2.jpg)
COLOR
D
IS THE COLOR "REAL"?
*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).
Published:
March 29, 2023 at 11:32:52 PM
IMPORTANT:
After having a camera's sensor get scratched (after dropping it with a speedbooster on) I don't recommend using speedboosters anymore on cameras with sensors that have IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization). The reason is that the optic sticks into the lens mount (more than an OEM lens) and if the camera is dropped, the extra force and motion of the IBIS sensor can cause the two to collide (thus scratching the sensor).
This is not only a review of this vintage lens, but also a review of the Pixco focal reducer (specific to this camera) and so far, I like it! This speed booster is inexpensive, and though it DOES create lens flare, it doesn't look too bad, and can be controlled (with a lens shade) if needed. This lens-sensor combination (of the Lumix GX85, the Canon FDn 50 1.8 + Pixco speed booster) is a pretty good way to get an F/1.2 lens, for a low price. What's really weird about this lens-sensor combination is that, even with a LOT of NR (Noise Reduction) added, it is still producing a lot of NOISE. You might wonder how a specific lens could produce MORE noise than another lens (with the same SENSOR) but I think it comes down to what was done to the light before it reaches the sensor, and then the interaction of the sensor and the light affects how the sensor displays things. It sounds really simple, but each lens-sensor relationship is a little different. So, because the digital noise is not going away, what I'm attempting to do is to make it look like film grain (as much as I can).
My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.