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Natural

"PHOTO STYLE"

-4

CONTRAST

-5

SHARPNESS

+3

NOISE

-1

COLOR

-0+3

HIGHLIGHT SHADOW

OFF

iDYNAMIC

OFF

iRESOLUTION

16-255

LUMINANCE LEVEL

 REAL  RATINGS

After testing each lens-sensor combo, I like to know if the rendering is going to look realistic (or not) as this will affect how easy it is to "shot match" (to other lenses).

Greyscale Landscape

CONTRAST

D

 IS THE CONTRAST "REAL"? 

Black and White Building

SHARPNESS

C

 IS THE SHARPNESS "REAL"? 

Lucid

NOISE

F

 IS THE NOISE "REAL"? 

Too-Much-Bokeh.jpg

COLOR

D

 IS THE COLOR "REAL"? 

*Click here to learn more about "REAL" Ratings. These ratings are AFTER my custom settings are applied (most combos don't look real good with default settings).

Published: 

April 8, 2022 at 10:47:25 PM


WARNING: This test was using a Viltrox EF-M2ii focal reducer/speedbooster which (in conjunction with this old lens and the noisy, high-powered AF pulling too much power) resulted in damage to my Panasonic GX85 camera. The camera started glitching and freezing up during the test, then electronics of the camera stopped working within a couple of months.

NOTES:
I got this lens because having the constant f/2.8 aperture was appealing, but this lens has a lot of problems. This lens in particular had a lot of chromatic abberations (which showed up as red, blue and purple fringes) and the overall CONTRAST and COLOR rendering are really weird (the contrast is not smooth in the transitions from shadow to highlight, and with this sensor the COLOR is not only inaccurate but incomplete). This is also the second pro Sigma lens that needed a +3 SHADOWS correction (using Highlight Shadow) because the lens is too contrasty (which is a bad thing with this sensor). All I can say is that I struggled to make the lens render a REAL-looking image, which is my goal.

My goal for these camera settings is to improve the "lens-sensor relationship" by adjusting the contrast, sharpness, noise reduction and color with the result that it produces an image that looks less "digital" and more "organic" (more like film, etc). The first step is to apply these settings while shooting (produces an image that looks pretty good straight out of camera) but keep in mind there may need to be slight color grading (or a LUT) applied to finalize each shot.

 SPECIAL THANKS TO
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