OVERVIEW:
I recently watched a VIDEO from filmmaker Joe for Video where he talked about a Micro Four Thirds lens that can almost turn your camera into a "camcorder". His article triggered memories of my search for a camcorder-style video camera that could produce both a quality image, and one that was AFFORDABLE. Sad to say, I never found one, but I DID find the Panasonic FZ1000 #ad . The FZ1000 is a $300 (used) 1-inch sensor bridge camera that I'm almost ready to recommend...as a legit filmmaking tool (with a few exceptions, which I will cover first).
ABOVE: I'm pretty close to being convinced that the FZ1000 is a truly professional filmmaking tool. After 2+ years of testing, I figured out how to make it produce a "non-digital" image using custom camera settings (which you can find on that link on my website).
UPDATE: IT ISN'T THAT BAD IN LOW LIGHT (WITH MY SETTINGS)
Okay, first let me give an important UPDATE to my former concern about the FZ1000 not being very good in low light: I've updated my lens-sensor specific custom settings (after lots of testing) and I now think they look pretty good in low light...up to ISO 800. You need to be careful to not go above 800 though, or you'll have the problems a small sensor produces (increased grain, noise and/or the look of too much noise reduction). The custom settings I'm using are doing a really good job though, and they include a Highlight Shadow curve and tweaks to the Natural "Photo Style".
ABOVE: The video above covers my current SOOC settings, plus the "Color Bump" and "Shadow Dip" settings I use for uploading to YouTube (it changes the color science when you upload files to YouTube, and these settings help fix it). Remember to start by using the custom lens-sensor settings.
THIS SMALL (1-INCH) SENSOR IS PRETTY GOOD...
So now let's talk about that "small" 1-inch sensor. I know there are many professional (and more expensive) camcorders that have a 1-inch sensor too, and a lot of those are considered professional tools. However, the reason I didn't go that way was those camcorders are so expensive. The important thing to me was to find an AFFORDABLE option, and the FZ1000 might actually be that alternative I was looking for! After testing the FZ1000 (for over 2 years) I'm excited to say that I've found its lens, sensor and processing team to be quite capable. So now, let's talk about a few tweaks that can turn the FZ1000 into a professional tool.
ABOVE: This video from DSI Pictures shows how good the FZ1000 can be when there is sufficient light. Also, this footage was most likely shot at the default settings of -0-0-0-0, but I know the FZ1000 sensor can do even better, with my custom settings.
About the Panasonic FZ1000:
TIP 1 CUSTOM SETTINGS MAKE IT BETTER
So, the #1 thing I do (and this is the "secret sauce") to turn the FZ1000 into a camera capable of producing a professional image (that is realistic, easy to work with in post, and that doesn't look fake) is to use the custom settings that I figured out (after lots and lots, and lots of testing). The reason is the FZ1000 can look too digital and not "real" good when using its default (0-0-0-0) settings. Using my custom settings removes the "digital look". These settings were selected using my lens-sensor specific testing method which seeks to match the CONTRAST, SHARPNESS and COLOR of every lens, to the sensor it's being used on. In the case of the FZ1000, there's only one lens so that makes it easier (though you do need different settings if you add an ND filter...or any optical add-ons). These custom settings change the FZ1000 into a camera that I feel confident using, that I know I can rely on (especially OUTDOORS) to produce a high-quality image (one with natural, accurate color and that creates a perception of good dynamic range). One setting that you have to be careful to not forget, is to set the "Luminance Level" to 0-255 (not the default setting of 16-255). The easy way to set it to 0-255, is simply to switch to 4K PHOTO mode (which will default to 0-255). You can set it without doing that, but it's a lot more difficult (and I don't remember the exact sequence). Also, I MIGHT have to add a LUT to bring back a little of the color to the image, and I do show my sharpness settings for post-production on the same custom settings page, but I've been amazed how good the images look WITHOUT doing any work in post (yet they're still VERY EASY to adjust in post, if you need to).
ABOVE: (Update) I've been tweaking my "Custom Settings" for the Panasonic FZ1000, and I've been able to get the image to a good "starting point" that has made it easy to work with the files even when I ACCIDENTALLY OVEREXPOSED THE SHOT!
TIP 2 IT LIKES AN ND8 FILTER OUTDOORS (NOT VARIABLE ND)
In the area of filtration, I think the Panasonic FZ2500 #ad is a better camera (based on my workflow) because it has built-in ND filters (a must-have for these bridge cameras OUTDOORS). The reason filters are a must outdoors, is the FZ1000 has a minimum aperture of f/8 and unless you break the 180-degree shutter rule (which I've done quite a few times) you cannot get proper exposure outdoors (even at the lowest ISO, which is 125). Therefore, after a bit of testing to find an easy solution, I now recommend using a good ND8 filter #ad (instead of buying a cheap variable ND). The reason I don't recommend a cheap VARIABLE ND filter, is that the image quality suffers dramatically towards the long end of the telephoto when using those. So, I'd recommend buying the Gobe ND8 I mentioned above, which is pretty affordable, and it won't ruin the image. If you use that filter outdoors (or whenever there's tons of light) the Panasonic FZ1000 #ad becomes a really good tool.
TIP 3 STABILIZATION IS GOOD, WITH A CAMERA CAGE
UPDATE: The cage I have been using and recommending is now out of stock (discontinued?) but the same company, Neewer, now sells this camera cage #ad and a newer one #ad that is a bit different but might be better. Using a cage makes the FZ1000 so much easier to use, and without it the lens-stabilization isn't good enough (and requires a gimbal or tripod). With this cage, however, you can pretty easily hand hold it in most situations, EVEN AT MAX. TELEPHOTO!
ABOVE: I use the above camera cage with the FZ1000 whenever possible. It makes the (lens) stabilization SO much better, and with the addition of a monopod, the FZ1000 is a REALLY great tool.
TIP 4 YOU CAN USE A (HEAVY) MONOPOD TO "FLY"
For less careful, faster movements (like you would do on a Steadicam, i.e. "flying") I add a heavy monopod #ad (don't get carbon fiber, it's too light) to the base of the camera cage, and it works really well. I even used the FZ1000 with a monopod before I added a cage (and that worked pretty well) but having both the monopod AND a cage is really great! A monopod is also very helpful when you want to shoot a more fixed (non-moving) shot that lasts a bit longer.
TIP 5 THE PANASONIC APP IS FUN (AT CLOSE RANGE)
Earlier, I wrote a BLOG post about how fun it was to use this camera with the Panasonic Image App on a STILL photography shoot. Then, after getting into video I wondered if the remote-control app would still come in handy. What I discovered was both exciting and discouraging (depending on how close the camera was to the control device, meaning the phone or tablet). When I tried the app INDOORS (in a conference room meeting situation) the results were excellent; I was able to control the camera using an Android tablet (zoom AND focus!) and it was very convenient. Then I tried it OUTDOORS...and that's where the fun stopped. I couldn't move more than a couple of feet away before both my phone and the camera seemed to freeze up when trying to connect. The camera kept recording, but the image on my iPhone 13 Pro Max #ad would lag, then freeze up (trying to connect to the FZ1000). My guess is that INDOORS the signal bounces around (off the ceiling, etc.) which actually makes it work...but OUTDOORS the signal just goes up, up and away!
ABOVE: Both focus AND zoom can be controlled with the app, making this camera (and the FZ1000 ii, FZ2500) a really great tool (indoors). It doesn't work too well OUTDOORS though. See my other post about how I used the app for an indoor photo shoot here.
TIP 6 THE BUILT-IN LENS IS GREAT (A 25-400 LEICA!)
The lens on the FZ1000 is really good at all focal lengths, even though it isn't an interchangeable lens (and even though it doesn't have that constant f/2.8 aperture of its smaller-sensor sibling, the Panasonic FZ300). I used to believe that having a non-interchangeable lens was a bad idea, but after doing hundreds of lens-sensor tests (and changing lenses more times than I felt was safe) I'm starting to appreciate the value of having a camera with a good lens, that DOESN'T come off. Sure, you don't have as many lens choices (though you can get TELE #ad and MACRO #ad attachments) but not taking the lens off is a good way to survive the ever-present threats to the integrity of the sensor that dust and dander create (and even the dangers of glitter during holidays). I must say I still like having a camera with an interchangeable lens (especially for adapting old lenses to Micro Four Thirds) but when productivity is priority, it really helps to not have to worry about sensor damage.
TIP 7 IT'S NOT GOOD FOR MACRO (WITHOUT A RAYNOX)
So, let's talk about the last concern I have about the FZ1000 in terms of being a full-featured, useful camera: It's not good for macro. The solution, I've been told (haven't tested this yet) is the Raynox DCR-150 Snap-On Macro Lens #ad . I've seen great pictures made with this combo, and the close-up attachment is less than $100 US (sometimes a lot less). To me, macro is an essential part of photography and video, so I'm glad this solution exists, but I haven't tried it yet because I'm still experimenting with my vintage macro on Micro Four Thirds (see that YouTube video link for a teaser).
WHAT ABOUT THE PANASONIC FZ2500?
When I was considering if the FZ1000 was a good budget filmmaking tool, I was trying to find other cameras (or camera systems) that could do everything this camera can do...for the same price, but I haven't found anything else yet. The Panasonic FZ2500 #ad is a better camera in a number of ways (especially because of the built-in NDs) and if you can afford it, I would recommend that over the FZ1000 (or FZ1000 ii) but only if you have the money! What makes it difficult is the FZ2500 is not only more expensive when NEW, but it's SUPER tough to find a used one.
SO, IS THE FZ1000 GOOD ENOUGH TO BE YOUR "A-CAM"?
No, I wouldn't say the FZ1000 is good as a main (A-camera) but when I ask if it would be a good as a B or C camera, I start to see how valuable it is. I think the FZ1000 is a powerful tool as a #3 or C-cam especially when used OUTDOORS. The reason is that it's small but has a wide zoom range (from WIDE to TELE) and you can use it to quickly set up a #3 shot, without a fuss. Doing this saves a lot of time, money and space, compared to buying, carrying and setting up a larger-sensor camera with a big telephoto lens (I call those a LOUS: a Lense of Unusual Size). So, I do feel comfortable recommending the FZ1000 as a C camera (and that's how I use it myself) but there are lots of other cameras (in the same price range) that would be a better A or B camera (the Panasonic G85 is a good budget A-cam, and the Panasonic GX85 works great as a B-cam). For more details, see my article "3 Budget Filmmaking Cameras ($300-$600)".
CONCLUSION:
It has been exciting to find a BUDGET camera that can do so much, and I hope I've made a good case for the FZ1000 #ad yet even if you don't appreciate that pun (or perhaps the FZ1000 itself) I hope you have the opportunity to give it a try and see what you think. I did have a difficult time downplaying how much I like the Panasonic FZ1000 #ad in beginning of this article but did it to try to be as realistic as possible about what it's capable of. For me it's difficult to compare the FZ1000 to an interchangeable-lens camera, and I would never recommend it to replace that. However, if you need a lens like that one Joe for Video mentioned in his YouTube VIDEO I feel great recommending this little, 1-inch sensor camera. It's a super good tool, one that I wouldn't be without.
Comments