OVERVIEW:
First of all, if you're wondering why I call my system "Fake Filmmaking" I can explain: My goal is to create a system that's different than conventional filmmaking, and that's why I figure it'll be called "fake". However, I think times really are changing, and some of the methods (and accompanying equipment) used by past professionals are out of date. Not only has IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) liberated many from the shackles of Steadicam vests (and large tripods) but decent on-camera monitors and other features are available on some very low-cost cameras (like the Panasonic GX85 and G85) which makes them legit budget filmmaking tools, in my opinion. Therefore, I've been working on some really easy methods for getting good quality from budget filmmaking LIGHTS, CAMERAS and AUDIO. This includes my "T-Lighting" method (which only uses 2 lights instead of the 3 of conventional filmmaking) to "Always Shoot with Two Cameras" (vs. shooting with 1 camera, over and over) and also how to record "synchronous sound" (to capture "REAL" audio on location, vs. foley). These methods, and CUSTOM SETTINGS, are my attempt to boil down the complex subject of filmmaking into something that's easier to learn, and do...and by all means, that's affordable.
ABOVE: I've been working on a budget filmmaking method that I call "Fake Filmmaking". It's budget-friendly, and easy enough for almost anyone to learn (either entry-level or advanced).
How To Be a "Fake Filmmaker":
FAKE TIP 1 DON'T BUY EXPENSIVE CAMERAS
I originally built my entire website based on the idea of creating a lens-sensor settings database, so I could look up the camera settings I used FOR EACH LENS. The reason I did this was because I found out that a lot of budget filmmaking cameras could produce good results, just by tweaking the camera settings! So, I really do care about quality, but I don't agree that the cameras have to be expensive for them to produce quality.
FAKE TIP 2 ONLY BUY CAMERAS WITH IBIS
I've also got a PODCAST about this topic, but the short version is that having IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) makes filmmaking easier in many ways:
It lets me to shoot with 2 cameras on 1 cage (see video)
It means I can use a less expensive and lighter-weight (portable) tripod #ad
I means I can even go handheld (without a gimbal) at times
FAKE TIP 3 ALWAYS SHOOT WITH 2 CAMERAS
This tip is one of the main things I emphasize, and before you worry about money, check out my affordable "Kit Plans" (3 kit levels to fit any budget or skill level).
The main objection "real" filmmakers have with this is not the cost, it's just tradition...and they like to do things the hard way (and shoot 1 scene over and over again for each camera angle). Even though this is a very popular view not all filmmakers insist on it. I think it's a waste of time, wearies the actors and makes the editor's job frustrating. Watch the first YouTube video I ever published that "covers" this topic.
FAKE TIP 4 DON'T BUY EXPENSIVE LENSES
If you believe in the idea "You get what you pay for" you might be offended with this next point. However, if you believe good deals happen (and aren't often planned) then you might like this idea. I uploaded a short YouTube VIDEO that covers my Top 3 (Budget) Lenses for Filmmaking ($100 or Less) but the general idea is there are a lot of good lenses out there...for not much money. Also, if you use my "Lens-Sensor LUTs & Camera Settings" you can make these lenses look even better. Staying within the budget space also means probably NOT using anamorphic lenses (even if they're called "budget") because they often cost nearly $1000 US!
FAKE TIP 5 USE MY "3 SIMPLE SHOTS"
Conventional filmmaking uses a long list of shot types, sometimes requiring storyboards for each one. My "3 Simple Shots" system covers those shots, but in a more flexible way. You simply always shoot 3 shots (or at least 2) of everything, so you don't really need storyboards.
FAKE TIP 6 DON'T SHOOT "FLAT" (OR IN LOG)
This is one of the reasons that people have called me a fake; I don't shoot "flat". There are lots of reasons why I do this, but keep in mind that MY GOAL is to create a system that is easy for entry-level filmmakers to use right away; mastering the art and science of both shooting flat (or in log) and then color grading (in post-production) is certainly NOT an entry-level skill. Here's the reasons why I don't think we fake filmmakers should shoot "flat":
Not all budget cameras have log (though the Panasonic G85 has a hidden log mode that Zeno has created LUTs for, etc.)
It's more difficult to judge exposure (on a flat, gray image)
It's more difficult to judge composition (when colors and tones don't look real)
It's much more difficult to grade in post (unless you're really good at color grading)
It makes the autofocus system work harder (if it's Panasonic's contrast-detect AF)
FAKE TIP 7 DON'T (ALWAYS) USE THE 180 RULE
This is a bit controversial, but if your goal is to make your footage look good, you may find that higher shutter speeds can make your footage look better on certain PLATFORMS (such as YouTube vs. in a movie theater) Therefore, do a lot of testing and don't worry too much about what "real" filmmakers tell you about 24 fps (frames per second). To explore this topic more, you can start with Tom Streller's YouTube video.
FAKE TIP 8 DON'T USE 3-POINT LIGHTING
Instead of 3-point lighting, I use what I call "T-Lighting". If you're not familiar with "T-Lighting" check out my video on YouTube that explains what "T-Lighting" is. Most people are told "if you're going to be a real filmmaker, you're going to have to learn to use 3-point lighting". Well, this may be true, but if you don't mind being called a "fake" check out my video about T-Lighting, and you can see how much EASIER it is (yet it produces similar results and requires fewer lights...and no boom)!
FAKE TIP 9 DON'T ADD LIGHT (OUTDOORS)
Outdoor lighting can be awesome, and so why mess with it? Not adding lights outdoors will not only make it easier, it will make things look more natural. I think it can be a waste of time, money and electricity to add light outdoors. INDOOR lighting scenes may need a little more help however, and that's where T-Lighting comes in (I think most indoor scenes have been polluted with light from non-artistic light from fixtures that were designed by engineers, not artists).
FAKE TIP 10 DON'T BUY EXPENSIVE AUDIO GEAR
Even though I agree with the advice that "Good audio is just as important as good video" I certainly don't agree that this always has to cost you a lot of money. After testing a lot of budget filmmaking audio gear, I've discovered that price isn't the #1 factor in audio quality; some of the less expensive mics (and audio recorders) can produce excellent results. I figured out some tricks that can help make these budget (3.5mm) mics and audio recorders sound a lot better. One is to use an inexpensive headphone amplifier to boost the signal (to reduce the self-noise of low-quality pre-amps found on most inexpensive wireless systems, etc). Also, there are a number of things you can do with 3.5mm (mini plug) audio that you can't do with XLR systems, and I even made a PODCAST about why 3.5mm mini plug audio is important (for budget filmmaking).
CONCLUSION:
When new ideas are introduced (or people try to do something a different way) they often draw criticism and get called a fake. I think however, that something good can come from this if we leverage the word "fake" to apply it to the new category of filmmakers; those of us on low budgets, who want to be filmmakers (but don't have a lot of money). Therefore, if you run into someone who asks you if you're a "real" filmmaker while you're still learning, I think it's okay to admit you're a "fake" and they might just be fine with that. (If they ask what that means, just send them to this blog post on my website.) Either way, I think we should just keep learning and realize that the quickest path to becoming a "master" is to get out there and practice, practice, practice.
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